Hotel Skeppsholmen A classic Swedish shrimp salad.


Swedish meatballs and salmon are not the only meal staples in Sweden. The shrimp salad is also a meal classic that I’ve grown fond of in my time in Stockholm.  Called Skagenröra, the  basic recipe combines tiny shrimp with a mayonnaise, dill and lemon dressing. Skagenröra can be served up as a salad with hard-boiled egg and salad greens as you see in the photo above.  Another option is to have it on toast as an open-faced sandwich. And I’ve also had it on top of a baked potato. It’s all good. But, funnily enough, it’s one of those meals I often order when I am out, but I’ve never made for myself. And I definitely never even heard of it before I moved to Sweden.

For my friend Zanne’s birthday a while back, we went to Hotel Skeppsholmen’s restauarant Långa Raden. It was a lovely spring evening and we ate outside. (This was before all this ridiculous gray and cold sweather set in.) I had the salad version and Zanne had the sandwich version. To start, we had some lightly salted crisps with parmesan on top and a horseradish dip. Together with some white wine,  it was a simple and tasty evening.


Chips with parmesan and a horseradish dip. Chips with parmesan and a horseradish dip.


Hotel Skeppsholmen Nothing left but the empties.


Hotel Skeppsholmen On the restaurant terrace.


Stockholm Just a handful of the sailboats in town for the race.


stockholm A classic wooden boat.


Stockholm Dressed to sail?


Stockholm is a city made for being in and on the water. Located on the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren, the center is made up of 14 islands. And just outside of town on the archipelago, there are some 40,000 islands.

With all this water, it’s a perfect city for staging a boat race. Every year at this time, I love seeing all the sailboats come into the city to take part in the The Round Gotland Race. Last night, I walked to Skeppsholmen, the island where the Royal Swedish Yacht Club, founded in Stockholm in 1830, assembles all the boats, booths, bands and beer for the race.

This offshore sailing race starts and finishes on the island of Sandhamn in the Stockholm archipelago and the boats sail to the island of Gotland. There were somewhere around 300 boats docked around Skeppsholmen yesterday. And while I did not see any royalty last night, I read that  the Kings of Sweden and Norway often participate.

There are a wide range of sailboats, from old wooden classics to the most modern and high tech options. The boats all have signs listing their category and skipper (there were some women). If you’re in town, it’s worth going to check out the scene.


stockholm The vagabonde.


stockholm Boat reflections.


Stockholm Race planning.


Stockholm The So Long race crew.


stockholm Leave your shoes at the door.


stockholm The way to the Sailors Bar and other options.


stockholm The AF Chapman, a hostel docked on Skeppsholmen.





Gamla Stan The Under Kastanjen (under the chestnut) cafe is located on one of my favorite small squares in Gamla Stan. And yes, it is under a chestnut tree.


Gamla Stan Bicycle parking.


When I dreamed of moving to Europe, I always pictured living in a place with cobblestone  streets, old buildings, narrow alleyways–you know, that sort of typical “European” look. I wanted to walk to the bakery and cheese shop, ride my bicycle, live the more laid-back life.

As part of a work event last week, I was taken on a special guided tour of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town. This part of the city is THE picture of old town Europe that I’ve had in my mind’s eye forever. I have spent a lot of time wondering around these streets over the years, so it was fun to hear some details about the area from an expert. Gamla Stan is where Stockholm was founded in 1252 and with the buildings from the 17th century  and earlier and the small, narrow streets that don’t fit cars, it’s easy to feel like you have stepped back in time.

We met up with our tour guide next to the Royal Palace and then walked into Bollhustäppana courtyard behind the Finnish church. There, we learned about Pojke som tittar på månen or “boy looking at the moon,” a tiny statue there. Also called iron boy, the statue often has hats and scarves knitted for it in the winter. And apparently, it’s considered good luck to rub the boy’s head, as you can see by his shiny head.


Gamla Stan Building support: beauty and function.


Gamla Stan Fire protection.


gamla stan Culutral historic marker.


From there, we checked out the specific details that make up old buildings, the building supports between the floors, the fake windows that were painted on to give a tax break and more. We learned about an early form of life insurance where a plaque over your doorway meant that you had paid extra to be saved in case of a fire, and much more.

It was such a wonderful way to spend an evening and such a good reminder of why I wanted to move here. By the way, I do walk, ride my bike or take the train everywhere.


Gamla Stan This tiny “iron boy” statue is behind the Finnish church and is purported to give you good luck.


Gamla Stan My fellow tour takers/coworkers. (I am the only one in sunglasses for some reason!) Photo by Rafael Braz.


stockholm The sky around midnight on midsummar afton: moving into the longest day of the year.


Stockholm Posing by the water.


midsommar Hanging out after dinner.


stockholm The long slow sunset of Swedish summer.



The kick-off weekend to summer here in Stockholm has been much more like March than June in my mind. Rain showers, gray skies and temperatures around  13-14 degrees C or 55-57 F. But in spite of the weather, we carried on with our usual midsommar celebrations on Friday. Even though the day was not nearly so warm and sunny as last year, it was still wonderful.

As per tradition, we were again at Nici and Roger’s house on the water just outside of town. Following the pattern we’ve set over the years, we started with a champagne toast and then a traditional Swedish lunch of sill or herring, Västerbotten cheese, hard bread, and new potatoes with dill and cream. This was accompanied by German beer, as well as Swedish and Norwegian snaps (vodka). And of course there were drinking songs.

Unlike previous years, we spent most of our time inside Nici and Roger’s little dining house by the water. But with good friends and conversation, the weather did not matter so much. And we did some dancing on the jetty to keep warm. Later on for dinner, we had a big BBQ with German sausages, American-style pasta salad, Australian rissoles and pavlova for dessert.


stockholm Midsommar lunch.


midsommar Nici and Roger’s homemade snaps.


midsommar Roger showing off his variety of beverage options. (This photo and next by Aron Krishna.)


midsommar Skål!


As we took the bus back into town at 3am, the sun was fully up. Even though the weather did not feel like summer, the light was cooperating at least.


midsommar Tone shows off her Axel Rose moves.


midsommar Taking a selfie with Caroline.


Stockholm summer Waiting for the bus back into town just after 2am–check out how light the sky is.




Stockholm Blondie performing at Cirkus.


Stockholm Debbie Harry is still cool.


It’s been silent on the blog lately–there’s been lots going on and we have not had free time. (More on that is to come.) But Tuesday night, we actually got to kick back and have some fun. We went to see Blondie perform at Cirkus and had such a good time. The arena is small–it holds just 1,650–and cozy and was actually built to hold a circus in 1892. I’ve wanted to see a concert there for a long time and I am glad that I finally got inside this beautiful old space.

We bought our tickets on a whim and Robert surprised me by also booking dinner at the restaurant connected to the theater. And another surprise was that the concert was a lot better than I expected it to be. Even at 69,  Debbie Harry is still rocking, still cool, still stylish and full of attitude. It was the band’s 40th anniversary tour and they played One Way or Another, Rapture, Heart of Glass, Call Me, Hanging on the Telephone–all the classic tunes, plus some new ones. But the highlight of the evening for me had to be when she covered the Beastie Boys’ You Gotta Fight For Your Right to Party. It was somehow such a perfect song for this queen of new wave and punk rock.

My fellow concert goers were a mix of people who looked like they had seen the band back in the late ’70s, as well as the young and stylish that were not born then. Concert T-shirts included Joy Division, Simple Minds, the Cult. It felt like I had stepped back into the 80s. Just for one night.


Stockholm Some of our fellow concert goers.


Stockholm Cirkus is such a unique venue-–it actually was used as a circus in the 1890s.


Stockholm Blondie 4 ever.


dumpling class Chef Chen, our dumpling guide, shows how thin you need to roll out the dough.


dumpling class Working the dough.


I am a new dumpling master. Or, at least that’s what my certificate from EAT, European Asian Taste restaurant, says. But while I spent several hours at dumpling school learning the techniques, I think I will need a lot more practice before I am any kind of dumpling master.  That said, the evening at the restaurant was a lot of fun and I did learn a lot about dumpling making.

Our international group of 10 was shown the finer points of dumpling making by chef Chen. The very, very patient Chen spent several hours showing us how to make five kinds of dumplings from different regions in China. We started out with a basic dumpling shape and then worked our way up in difficulty from there. The class was very hands on and we each got to roll out the dough, add filling and then try to shape it into the appropriate form. The shaping was the hard part and it required a good bit of manual dexterity. As for me, I was more successful in folding my earlier shapes than the later ones.

dumpling class Ready to begin.


dumpling class And the rest of the group.


There were different techniques to learn about how to roll out the different kinds of dough and how to fold the shapes. We made a dim sum with several kinds of mushrooms in it, a seafood dim sum with crab, shrimp and scallops, a pork dim sum with chili, a kale and shrimp wonton, and also a duck and pumpkin dim sum.

But best of all, after we finished making the dumplings the restaurant cooked them up for us and we got to sample our creations. My favorite was the simple steamed mushroom dim sum, but the others were all pretty tasty as well. And at the end of the evening, we were each presented with a framed “dumpling master” certificate and the recipes. It was such a fun twist on going out for dinner at  a restaurant, and it was also a great way to spend an evening. (Read more about EAT and the dumpling school here..)


dumpling class Folding wontons.


dumpling class Adding the seafood filling.


dumpling class A collection of our ready-to-cook dumplings.


dumpling class Some of our shapes turned out better than others.


dumpling school Another batch ready for steaming.


dumpling school At the table, we each had a trio of dipping sauces for the dumplings.


dumpling school The fried dumplings.


dumpling school Wonton soup.



Stockholm Sunset across the Baltic Sea, as seen from Marilyn’s apartment.


Walking home tonight at 10.30, there was still a beautiful pink light in the sky. As the night sky turned to an increasingly deeper shade of blue, the pinks became even more intense.

These days, I just can’t get enough of the light. I feel so lucky to be a part of it. It’s that crazy, magical time of year when everything seems possible thanks to the long hours of daylight. Stockholm is at its most buzzy and it always feels like every single social engagement is packed into the next few weeks. (I almost forgot about a book talk by Donna Tartt that I had tickets for on Sunday. Luckily, I remembered about one hour before it began.)

There are so many cool, fun things going on around town that I could be double or triple-booked on any given night. And then bam! Come July, things go quiet. Funny how that works.


Stockholm The view from Södermalm looking toward the old town.


In walking from Södermalm– the island I live on– to Gamla Stan the other day, I took this photo. I loved the patterns the clouds made in the sky. And the time? It was sunset. Officially right now, that’s 9.05 pm. But the light lingers in the sky much later than that. And sunrise is at 4.24 am.

The night is not so long these days.

And that’s one of the many things I love about living so far north. How north are we? Think where Alaska is, my American friends. That’s the part of the world I inhabit.

What am I not liking about living in the north right now? The weather. It feels like it has been gray and chilly for weeks. In skyping with my mom earlier for mother’s day, she mentioned it was 80 degrees f (26 degrees c) in my hometown of Cincinnati. I could barely control my jealousy. The high temperature here today? It was 9 degrees c (48.2). Stupid weather.



Stockholm Spring still life: Moving the season inside at Debora’s house.


Yup, it was snowing again last night just before I went to bed.. It’s spring in Stockholm. From my many years here, I know that snow in May  happens just about every year. So I expect it. I laugh and carry on. Because at least at this time of year, the snow does not usually accumulate. And lots of things are blooming, even if it is not warm.  So it is chilly, but pretty.


Stockholm The path less traveled. 


Stockholm Hill of flowers. Stockholm Blooming feathers.


Stockholm A flash of yellow.



Stockholm The SL “buy summer tickets” campaign.


Stockholm So travel!


The summer advertising campaign  for SL, Stockholm’s subway and bus transport system, has been the talk of Stockholm lately. Why? It features a cartoon dog and a bunch of nonsensical statements like “Very buy,” Much financial,” and “So travel.”

For the most part, it’s been confusing the heck out of people. I’ve heard people talking along the lines of, “Wow, SL really messed up that one. They hired the wrong agency for working with English” and so on. It’s been funny to read and hear all the dialogue about it on line as well. And the first day it was up in the subway, I heard two 30-something Swedes talking about it. “Do you get it? No. Me either.”

So what’s behind the confusion? Basically, the dog is mostly associated with pictures of Shiba Inus (nicknamed Shibe) and internal captions on Tumblr. Shibe is a meme or an idea and the odd little phrases and pictures of the dog have became a big hit on Twitter and other forms of social media.

According to SL, “This is a campaign aimed at people in their 20s , and it lies within the range of people who are likely to have seen this message before, and recognize the imagery.”

But for everyone else who is riding the subway and bus and seeing the signs, the campaign doesn’t make sense. And I’ve been wonder whether in a country where English is a second or third language for most people, is it a good idea to use confusing sentences like these in a campaign?

Then again, it really does feel like a lot of people are talking about this campaign, and isn’t that the best thing that SL could hope for in terms of a “buy summer tickets” ad? After all, I can’t remember any other SL ad that had people talking like this.