Stockholm food hall A seafood lasagna at Melanders Fisk.

 

Stockholm market halls The menu from Fiskeläget, where we enjoyed a glass of wine.

 

Late Saturday afternoon, we went to Hötorgshallen, a food hall in the center of Stockholm. We had a gift certificate from one of the fish vendors at the market and decided that we wanted crab legs for dinner. But first, we had a glass of wine at one of the counters.

 

Stockholm markets From our counter perch, it was easy to see what everyone was buying to take home for dinner.

 

Stockholm This tiny dining spot is tucked under the elevators at the market hall.

 

One of the things that I really enjoy about Stockholm’s food halls, including Hötorgshallen, Östermalms Saluhall and Söderhallarna, is how easy it is to not only shop, but also eat while you are there. Counters with bar stools are woven around many of the stalls so you can literally sit right with the vendors and enjoy a glass and a toast skagen while you place your order, for fish, for instance.  There are also a variety of mini cafes around the halls as well where you can sit at a table and eat.

I love the counter seating, in particular though. Almost always, the vendors will chat with you, give tips on what is the best thing to buy from them, how to cook it and even offer up samples of things to taste. It’s very friendly. Or, as Robert is fond of saying: it’s all very civilized.

Another good thing about Hötorgshallen is that it has all the good Swedish food you would expect, but it also has food stalls featuring Mexican, Italian, Finnish and English  goodies too. While it’s not nearly as old world and charming looking as the Östermalm hall, it does have a good vibe.

 

Stockholm breakfast A little caviar for breakfast. Thanks to a gift certificate, we splurged on the tiny tin of ARS Italica Calvisius.

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semla A semla from Tossebagariet.

 

I just ate my obligatory semla in honor of Fettisdagen, also called semlans dag, or is it as known in other parts of the world, Fat Tuesday or Shrove Tuesday. I’ve written before about what a semla is and why this is a celebratory day.

But the big news this year in Stockholm has been the launch of the semla wrap at one of the city’s more classic and prestigious bakeries, Tössebageriet. Designed to be eaten on the go, there’s been a lot of criticism about modernizing a tradition. That said, lines have been out the door and down the street to get the semla wrap. I know several friends that have tried to get one, but gave up after the long wait.  So I am sure that this new take on the tradition is going to be around next year.

And I just heard that the baker at Tösse said they sold 25 000 semlor today. That’s just one bakery in town. Who knows how many were actually made and consumed around town….

 

selmor The wrap semla.

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Swedish recipes According to my friends Zanne and Suzanne, my chocolate balls turned out well!

 

For valentine’s day, I got my Swedish on and made chokladbollar or chocolate balls. These chocolate goodies have been one of my favorite sweets to eat at a cafe with a cup of tea since I first moved to Sweden. In a country where I was not familiar with most of the deserts and what was in them, the chokladbollar were a safe bet to try for someone who loves chocolate.

But I’d never made them before. I was inspired to try them thanks to my niece. Kate chose Sweden as the country she would talk about in terms of food and culture for a Girl Scouts project. She needed a recipe to make and share, so I suggested chocolate balls. Before I could full-on recommend that she make them though, I felt I had to try them.

And they were super easy. The ingredients are simple:  just sugar, butter, cocoa, vanilla, oats, coconut. No baking required. I made this chokladbollar recipe from a Swedish web site. But I found plenty of other ones on line in English as well.

If you want to make an easy chocolate gift for valentine’s day, chocolate balls are the way to go. (And thanks to Kate for inspiring me to try them!)

 

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Stockholm A garden house in Tantolunden.

 

Stockholm Winter pathway.

 

On Friday at 5, I got a text from my friend Nici. “Any spontaneous after work plans?”

And so began what turned out to be an entire weekend of just rolling along with things, something we seem to have been doing a lot of this winter. We had a great evening of catching up and laughing. Then Saturday we got a text from Adam asking if we could spontaneously join them for dinner at Miss Voon. So we did. And that was another fun evening with good food and friends.

It’s been that way a lot lately. So yesterday, that meant we went to Liljevalchs for vårsalong or the spring salon for the annual juried art show.  Last weekend, we went to a flamenco performance and saw some incredible dancing, guitar playing and singing.

 

Stockholm Last weekend, we spontaneously went to a flamenco concert. Spanish was the dominant language being spoken all around us. Fun!

 

And in between it all, there’s been all this fabulous snow. It was gloriously sunny yesterday and it looks like more of that is happening today. And since we’ve had all this snow, that made the day spectacularly bright. Robert has “generously” passed on the cold that he has had for the last week to me, so now I am the sniffly and tired one. That’s a drag, but life is good overall.

 

 

Stockholm More snow out my window!

 

Stockholm Winter canal.

 

 

 

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Meatballs for the people The meatball sampler plate.

 

I’d been meaning to go to Meatballs for the People–described as Sweden’s first and only meatball butik– for months. I love the idea of a meatball restaurant where you can also pick up meatballs to go. And not just any meatballs, but THE BEST meatballs. Meatballs made of elk, salmon, reindeer, turkey. Even vegetarian meatballs. What a good idea!

But I think I must have ordered wrong. To sample several different types of meatballs, I got the tasting platter which had four different meatballs from the daily assortment along with a few scattered pickled cucumbers, lingonberries and cauliflower.  And I also tried the meatball slider–a veal meatball on a bun. It was all OK. I was super hungry, so my starters didn’t really satisfy me.

The dinners were all the classic Swedish plates: meatballs served with mashed potatoes, lingonberries and pickled cucumbers. And I think I had it in my head that a restaurant with such a fun name in the trendy neighborhood of Sofo would do something different with the meatball, not the standard. So I was a little disappointed.

In retrospect, I should have gotten the dinner and gone for the standard. The service was slow, but super friendly. The crowd was lively on a Wednesday night.  And the look of the place is Stockholm cool. So I’ve decided to give Meatballs for the People a second chance and go for the big meatball dinner next time.

What about it Stockholmers? Are you a fan of the meatballs?

 

Meatballs for the people The meatball slider.

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Stockholm restaurants Kalf & Hansen’s Nordic fast food.

 

Just after I got back from the US, Robert and I took a wander around Södermalm, the island we live on. We needed lunch, so we stopped into Kalf & Hansen, a relatively new cafe in Mariatorget that we’ve wanted to check out for a while.

It was a snowy Saturday afternoon, long after the noontime lunch crowd, but the tiny restaurant was packed. Even so, the service was fast and friendly and everyone was happy to describe how the menu works. But best of all, the lunch was truly some of the best food food I’ve ever had. In fact, I kind of hate to call it fast food because that somehow doesn’t do justice to what is being served up–basically, a thoughtful variety of fresh and local ingredients served up in a creative style.

On the menu, Kalf & Hansen describe themselves as serving 100% Nordic, ecological fast food. The menu is small and meals are named after Nordic cities. I tried the Stockholm meal and it had seasonal vegetables, vegetarian meatballs and I added the chili mayonnaise sauce at the suggestion of the server. Robert had the meat version of the meatballs. Both were really tasty.

Blackboards on the wall list the names of the staff who are working. And they also describe where the food being served that day is sourced from. So our potatoes and vegetables came from Tanga Gård, the meat from Gårdssälskapet, and so on.

I love the whole concept of how food is done at Kalf & Hansen. And I will definitely go back again soon.

 

Stockholm food The late lunch on a Saturday bustle.

 

Stockholm food Robert poses with restaurant co-owner Fabian Kalf-Hansen.

 

Stockholm food The blackboards list where all the ingredients used in the meals were sourced from.

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Gamla Stan view The patterns on the ice were so pretty last weekend.

 

Snow, sleet. Snow, sleet. That’s been the weather today. It’s created large mushy puddles of sloppy snow that are hard to avoid. It’s not a day to year your good boots.

January and February are always tough months for me in Stockholm. Even though the days are getting longer, they are still short. And often just endlessly gray all day. While there’s been a lot of gray since I got back from the US, there’s also been a good amount of snow. That snow helps to brighten up the gray. And hey, it is pretty.

So while it may sound like I am whining just.a.little, I’m overall good. It’s been fun to be back home in Stockholm, seeing friends, getting back into routines and enjoying our apartment.

The photos here are from last weekend. The first two are from Södermalm, looking toward Gamla Stan. And the next one is on Södermalm. I love the gray light in all of them.

 

Gamla Stan Subway lines.

 

Södermalm The church yard at Maria Magdalena.

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new year toast My cousin Kezia took this photo of me just before we headed out to celebrate on new year’s eve.

 

I’ve never been a new year’s resolution making type of person. Maybe I don’t want to risk failure, but I don’t think that’s quite it. I just never got into that whole list making for life thinking. That said, I have been trying to live my life more deliberately over the last few months. Specifically, I’ve been harkening back to my days as an English lit major and thinking of Henry David Thoreau, of all people. When I read Thoreau in university, I have to say that his writing left me cold. But some of his thinking in Walden has always stayed with me:

“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived. ….. I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life….”

Living deliberately was what I did when I moved to Sweden. I had spent so many years thinking  that I wanted to live In Europe, but never actually making the move. (You can read more about how I followed my dream in this link.) I’ve had my tough times with living in Europe, but ultimately, I’ve never regretted that basic decision to live abroad.

Now I’m finding the need to be more deliberate again in terms of a few things in life. Mostly, I want to do more of my own writing and traveling. But to make time for and support these habits, I have a few decisions to make. So in 2015, I will spend time figuring out how to make things happen for me.

I will keep you posted on how it all goes. Thus far, 2015 has been filled with a lot of laughs thanks to spending time with some of my favorite people–my Carpenter cousins in northern Ohio. That makes for a nice start.

Happy new year/gott nytt år!

 

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christmas traditions As far back as I can remember, I’ve had buttermilk waffles for breakfast on Christmas morning.

 

I’ve been back in the US for the last week or so, seeing family and friends and in general, doing all those little Christmas things I’ve done all my life. I baked and decorated sugar cookies with my nieces and nephews, drank egg nog out of my Santa mug, shopped with my mom, wrapped presents for my dad, watched the Charlie Brown Christmas show and listened to all my favorite holiday songs.

There’s such a simple pleasure in observing all these traditions, eating my Mom’s Mexican wedding cookies– aka pecan sandies–sugar cookies, raspberry almond bars, and way too many more for my own good.

And I was thinking about how lucky I am that I get to continue these traditions, while also getting to incorporate all sorts of traditions from my adopted homelands of Sweden and Australia as well. So that means my holidays typically also include Swedish herring and snaps as well as Robert’s Australian pavlova. It’s a veritable smorgasbord–that’s actually a Swedish word, did you know–of food.

 

holiday traditions These Santa mugs are older than me! I can remember drinking milk in them as a kid.

 

xmas traditions Making cookies with my niece and nephew. Given all the dough we ate, it’s a wonder that we had any left to bake and decorate.

 

xmas traditions Some of the finished sugar cookies.

 

xmas traditions Lots and lots of peanut butter kisses. xmas traditions The Christmas tree at my parent’s house has hand-blown glass ornaments that my mom collected for years from a craftsman in Houghton Lake, Michigan, where we vacationed every summer.

 

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Stockholm Christmas goodies from the Kungsträdgården holiday market.

 

Christmas in Stockholm Lussebullar or saffron buns.

 

Stockholm Christmas beer from Mathias Dahlgren.

 

The last weeks have been filled with all sorts of things I love: holiday dinner parties and drinks with friends, Christmas markets, the Nobel prize ceremonies, my book group white elephant party, and more. It’s all been a lot of fun, but with everything that’s been going on and then flying to the US, I suppose it’s no wonder that I ended up with the flu just after I arrived. At least it seems to be the 24-hour version and I seem to be doing much better today.

Here I’ve included some of my favorite images from Stockholm, including everything from Christmas desserts and beer to ice skating and holiday markets.

Hope you are enjoying your pre-holiday madness too!

 

Stockholm Christmas carolers.

 

Stockholm Christmas lights in Hornstull.

 

Stockholm Ice skating at Kungsträdgården.

 

stockholm Our international dinner party included recipes from Brazil, Uruguay, England, Australia, Romania, and the US.

 

I always enjoy watching the fanfare of the Nobel prize ceremony. I always enjoy watching the fanfare of the Nobel prize ceremony.

 

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